London and the country side of Great Britain (Part 1)
Pilot
The UK had been patiently waiting in line on my travel wishlist for a long time. Hoping that someday I would give it attention, it stayed quiet and recorded in the corner. After circling around it for a while, I gathered up the courage. I decided to approach it. It didn't matter that it took a concert and a generous discount on plane tickets.
I had heard too many stories about the UK. I couldn't postpone the moment any longer. Said and done. After conducting research, I found some quite appealing tickets departing from Suceava Airport. Baaang. Done. Next came the accommodation, which took a leisurely two weeks to book. Eventually, the Duke of Leinster Hotel seemed like a great deal. In the end, I realized that only the location was a wise choice. The conclusion is not to book your accommodation there and hope that the price reflects the quality of the place you'll find.
The landing and getting a feel for the city
Wizz Air operates daily flights to London, attracting a significant number of Romanians. Many of them are likely traveling for employment opportunities rather than purely visiting Western Europe. The flight lands in Luton, a city located nearly 60km away from London.
Once safely arrived in Luton, we immediately set out to find a way to reach London. We opted for the train right away, as we were eager to get to the city. As soon as you exit the aircraft and pass through the security point, you come across ticket machines for trains or buses. Our choice wasn't exactly the cheapest (around £19 per person). The fare prices for train travel in and around London are almost standard. In just about 40 minutes, we arrived in the city.
Our accommodation was along the Circle Line so we took the first subway train to the Paddington Station. We were fascinated by the architecture of the buildings, the vibrant greenery of the trees, the multitude of cyclists and runners, and especially the fast pace of the city.
It didn't take long for us to reach the hotel. We were slightly disappointed with it. However, this is a subjective matter. We couldn't stay in the room for more than 30 minutes and got ready to explore the city on foot.
The first day
As mentioned earlier, the area where we were accommodated was quite lovely. The hotel located near Hyde Park seemed to compel us to choose this park as our first stop in London. On the way, we were particularly fascinated by the unique color palette of this area. The Leinster neighborhood is predominantly composed of two-story buildings. Even when you change streets, sometimes even architectures, the color palette remains consistent. The streets are so diverse and incredibly familiar at the same time.
Setting aside the beauty of the city for a moment, we arrive at the park. I have seen quite a few lovely parks in Milan, Berlin, or Paris. But this one seemed to show me something I hadn't seen before. Could it be the squirrels that sit and approach you in hopes of receiving a nut or an acorn? Could it be the people who, upon seeing you play with the squirrels, come and offer you seeds to feed them? Could it be the mornings when running through this park fascinates you with the multitude and variety of ages among those traversing it from end to end?
I cannot say for certain what the exact reason is. I can say that each of the things mentioned has touched my emotions in some way.
The squirrels from Hyde Park
Hyde Park is a combination between Kensington Gardens (west) and Hyde Park (east). The western part of Hyde Park seems to be more geared towards movement and activity, while the eastern part appears to be oriented towards relaxation and leisure. In the midst of both sides, there is a charming lake that hosts a mix of swans and ducks, carefully guiding their offspring. On the first evening, we explored both sides of the park. I was surprised to see how friendly the squirrels were here, as if they were in their own habitat. They are accustomed to humans and frolic around as if they were at home. Londoners have made it a habit to bring bags of nuts and seeds when Hyde Park is on their route.
We headed towards Buckingham Palace. On the way, we passed through Wellington Arch, which was originally built as an entrance to the palace. Later, it became a monument commemorating Wellington's victories over Napoleon. In less than 5 minutes, we already found Buckingham Palace on the right side. I think the thing that caught my attention here was the constant patrol of the Queen's Guards. I was greatly impressed by their discipline and precise movements. They almost seemed like robots, activated and carrying out their duties with precision.
The Horse Grounds Parade
The day continued with a leisurely stroll, during which we aimed to enjoy the surroundings. We were quite curious to see the residence of the Prime Minister, from where press briefings and interviews were often conducted. Unfortunately, the area was closed off to the public. However, the streets were prepared as if for a marathon. Everything seemed organized, but we didn't know why. At one point, we heard the sound of a fanfare. We followed the source of this rhythm like mice chasing after cheese.
The rhythm of the sounds led us near The Household Cavalry Museum, where we encountered a parade of impeccably synchronized soldiers in the Horse Grounds Parade . According to information provided by a local, this parade was performed by the Royal Marines of the British Armed Forces. We savored its beauty like authentic British citizens. The people here place a special emphasis on the royal guards, the marches, and the cavalry rides through the city. We enjoyed the spectacle alongside them, embracing the experience.
We continued to have a blast, taking in all the beauty of the city as we made our way towards the London Eye. The buses, metro stations, the hustle and bustle of the city, all of it energized us rather than wearing us out. You have to be incredibly attentive because everything is on super boost here. The Westminster area hosts many lovely and significant landmarks, which is why it's also very crowded.
The Old Shades Pub and a pints beauty
As we were starting to feel hungry after such a full day, our first stop before reaching the London Eye was to indulge in the authenticity of English cuisine. But wait... how? Unfortunately, I would have to say that it's probably one of the biggest downsides it has. The lack of authenticity in their kitchens when it comes to London. This aspect is largely due to the diverse nationalities gathered here.
After all the buzz of the day, our first stop was at The Old Shades where I quickly triumphed in front of a pint of mild beer that eagerly sought the company of a burger. If you're not familiar with the term "pint," I can tell you that in the UK, draft beer is typically served in a glass called pint (a glass – 285ml), from schooner (450ml), pint (570ml) or from a jug (1,1l glass, but less frequent). The pint is the most common serving size.
Londra is full of such pubs where beer, fish and chips, burgers, wooden furniture, and leather benches create a truly cinematic setting infused with British style. The difference between their pubs and ours is that the accent of their language is so vibrant and strong that everything becomes lively. It's all part of the country's ambiance, and I must admit, at times it's incredibly cool.
After the pit stop where we satisfied our stomach cravings, we redirected ourselves to the last stop of the first day: the London Eye. As it's also called The Coca Cola London Eye, , this round thing watches over the city almost like Big Ben. By the way, Big Ben won't be on the list of this story because it's covered and undergoing restoration. Unfortunately, it won't chime for the next 5 years.
If you take a walk in the evening after sunset on Hungerford Bridge and Golden Jubilee Bridgesyou will enjoy the unforgettable view from above.
Second day
I think the mornings in central London start from here. One of my habits when I travel is to start the day with a brisk run. You see a completely different version of the city. That's what I did in London. I woke up quite early. By 5:30 am, I was already awake, testing my morning skills of keeping my eyes open. After getting myself ready, I stepped out of the hotel. Outside, there were still traces of sleepiness in the air. However, there was something that made the morning feel different.
As soon as I reached the main boulevard, it felt like 6:00 am suddenly turned into 9:00 am. I wasn't in the mood for hustle and bustle just yet. I steered the "wheel" and entered the park. The morning was calm and beautiful. Everything made the run even more enjoyable. The park pathways were bustling with busy squirrels. They seemed like my cats who wake up at 4:00 am and already start preparing their cozy spot by 9:00 am. On the edges of the lakes, the ducks were still sleeping with their heads tucked in their feathers. They were quite amusing to see.
What I enjoyed the most during this run was a group of elderly people. You know that pattern of girls who promote modern fitness and support the movement? They are well-groomed, energetic, and full of zest for life. The ladies I mentioned were like those girls, just three times older. Further along, I saw a few showers by the edge of the lake. I was a little curious about their purpose. It didn't take long before I noticed a mix of arms splashing in the water to my left. People were swimming there. Don't imagine it as a very clean lake. A few meters away, the characteristic green silk of the wetland area was peacefully sleeping. The conclusion is simple in the end. I love the city from the perspective of movement so far.
I would love to explain how lovely the landscaped area mentioned earlier was. Throughout the length of the park, a mini racecourse served the people who came here to ride and start their day alongside their magnificent horses.
London pass and Oyster Card
After the excitement of an active morning, we returned to the hotel. After a quick shower and a hearty lunch, we finalized our plan for the day. London has many attractions that are worth visiting, and the most important thing is to organize your time efficiently. We allocated two full days for the city. On the first day, we focused on exploring the exterior part of the city, the buildings, neighborhoods, and places seen from the outside. The next day was dedicated to visiting the desired attractions, and this time the goal was to go inside each one (considering the weather as well).
Why is that? Simple. In London, you can easily access various locations using the London Pass. You can find the complete list of tourist attractions that you can visit here . Such a pass starts from £70 and can come with an add-on for public transportation (Oyster card). The Oyster card is an individual card on which you can load credit and it saves you from buying a ticket for each journey. A single journey in zones 1/2 costs £1.90. It's possible that interzone distances may be slightly more expensive (+20p compared to the regular fare). I didn't purchase the London Pass with travel package. One thing for sure is that you cannot use it electronically like you can with the Oyster Card or the London Pass app on your mobile phone. You have to present yourself at any tourist kiosk and collect your cards from there.
Buckingham Palace and the royal guard exchange
Every day at 11:00, the Changing of the Guard takes place. It's like a small show offered to the tourists and, especially, to every British individual. The hustle and bustle begins ten minutes before the shift change. That's when mounted police create a corridor, trying to keep the gathered crowd at a distance, specifically for this mini-parade. At 11:00, the new guard approaches the palace through the space generously provided and organized by the police. The palace gates open, and the new guard enters. Inside the palace courtyard, three soldiers from the newly arrived guard move towards the two stationed at the entrance to the palace.
They all position themselves in front of the soldier who is still on duty. One of them checks the post assignment of the soldier on duty with a solid and rigid attitude. Once the evaluation of the assignment is complete, the soldier who is about to go on duty joins the existing soldier. They perform the exchange by taking two synchronized steps. Together, the new group of three soldiers moves towards the next one who is waiting for the same process to be applied. It's a really charming and enjoyable sight. It makes you appreciate their elegance on a higher level than when you see them in pictures.
Normally, from what I have seen and read (I may be mistaken), there are two main types of soldiers in the Changing of the Guard ceremony. The predominant ones are the Queen's Guard. They are easily recognizable by their bearskin hats, red tunics, and navy blue trousers. Each year, Canada donates 70 of these bearskin hats to the Queen's Guard.
addition to them, there are the soldiers from the 2nd Battalion The Rifles who wear a more traditional attire. All of them have the same solid and unwavering attitude. Their march is clean and synchronized. It can be quite amusing when the Queen's Guard soldiers are on duty and sometimes one of them drops their bearskin hat, and they either pull it back up or adjust it further back, depending on the situation.
If you visit there, it's advisable to check the Changing of the Guard schedule on this website. Sometimes the ceremony may not take place due to other royal events. Also, there might be occasions when the ceremony takes place without the much-anticipated band performance.
Londra from outside
Indeed, the feeling you get when you see the famous Taxi cabs on the streets, recognized worldwide for their unique shapes, is remarkable. Not to mention the iconic red double-decker buses that stand out immediately due to their contrasting colors. The telephone booths in the same hue as the buses are equally distinctive. And let's not forget about the old mailboxes that I believe are still in use today, adding to the overall ambiance and completing the picture.
We continued our journey through the Carnaby neighborhood and admired how everything was vibrant. We were pleasantly surprised by this area. It almost felt like the Old Town Center of Bucharest. There was a warm atmosphere. Despite the fast pace of things here, there was a certain calmness that was quite unusual. People were even able to relax while on the move. Whether you stopped at Ben’s Cookies to enjoy an incredibly tasty ginger or oatmeal pastry or visited a Starbucks for a simple cup of coffee, everything had its own charm
We continued our journey to Camden Town. Our goal was to reach a vegan restaurant. It had a high popularity on TripAdvisor. I think what I can say about Camden Town can be summed up in a conversation with a friend:
My friend: Have you ever been to Camden Town?
Me: Yep
My friend: Isn't it crazy? I've been there with a few friends too.
MeHonestly, I didn't like it that much. It was okay, but quite bustling compared to the rest of the city, which, although equally lively, was also calm at the same time.
My friendI'm not sure if I would go there with my wife. It has a quite strong vibe. It's good to go with friends, I think...
I couldn't describe it more than this little conversation. The conclusions are up to each person's attitude and preferences. However, I did enjoy the wide variety of culinary options there. You can find Mexican, Thai, as well as classic burgers and Chinese food. Camden Market is an area with three rows of stalls, all of which are small fast-food places offering To Go portions of various cuisines. It can be more challenging if you're trying to maintain a vegan diet, as you can't escape the classic use of yogurt, cheese, or dairy in some dishes.
We arrived at the famous vegan restaurant we mentioned at the beginning of this article, and I was completely disappointed. Sometimes the TripAdvisor rating doesn't accurately reflect the true experience of a place. I won't go into detail about it because it would be pointless.
The O2 Arena and Bryan Adams Concert
Looking at the clock, I saw that it was 4:00 PM. A little panicked, I asked Dana what time the concert was. One of the reasons for our trip here was Bryan Adams Ultimate concert at The O2 arena. We remembered that the doors opened at 6:00 PM. We decided to give up exploring Camden Town and hurried back to the hotel. On the way, we grabbed two avocado and hummus sandwiches from a popular food-to-go store.
Upon reaching our room... bangggg. The room we initially received was nothing like what we had reserved. We immediately requested another room and were temporarily given a 4-person room. It was bearable in terms of room temperature. Back at the hotel, we were given another room. It was just as stuffy as the first one, but slightly more decent. Surprise! When I tried to brush my teeth, a London-style sprinkler appeared from the ceiling. There was a flood coming from the room above. Anyway, I won't dwell on the room mishaps.
We continued our day, eagerly anticipating our arrival at The O2. In December 2016, I had the pleasure of enjoying a Scorpions concert in Berlin at the Mercedes Benz Arena. It wasn't quite the same feeling as now, but it was quite nice.
However, I noticed an unexpectedly high number of elderly people or people with disabilities. This concert seemed to be one of those that make you feel alive. There were moments when I couldn't stay seated. The vibrant energy lifted you to your feet. It was by far the most amazing concert. It had the complete package: life, energy, classics, legends, and vibe.
I wish I could put into words what it feels like at such a concert, but I'll let this video on YouTube show you the beautiful atmosphere:
Westminster Abbey and Sf. Paul Cathedral
Day three was going to be a more relaxed day. We explored the buildings from the inside. After nearly two days, we were starting to feel a bit tired. However, our desire to make the most of the beautiful British capital was still up and running.
After analyzing the tourist areas of London, we decided to put four major attractions on our day four wishlist: Westminster Abbey, St. Paul's Cathedral, the Tower of London, and Tower Bridge. They were all included in the London Pass. According to our calculations, it was a decent deal. Even better was the lack of queuing for tickets.
Westminster Abbey is located in the central area. It is a Gothic-style gem. It has been the site of all coronations of kings and queens since the 11th century. So far, there have been 39 such events. What's more, it is the resting place of many of the most famous people in the United Kingdom. This mix makes it particularly valuable. It is a royal church that directly represents the sovereignty of Great Britain. In addition to the 17 monarchs buried here, notable figures such as Isaac Newton and Charles Dickens are also interred
Westminster Abbey is currently designated as a UNESCO archaeological site. It has hosted 17 royal weddings to date, including the last one in 2011 for Princess Diana. The cathedral is immense and divided into sections, each showcasing a fragment of royal life. The architectural details and meticulousness quickly captivate you.
After our visit to Westminster Abbey, we headed towards St. Paul's Cathedral. Initially, we had the impression that it would be just like many other cathedrals of its kind. Apparently, that was not the case. St. Paul's Cathedral is the heart of the Anglican religion and the mother church of the Diocese of London.
The interior, as you enter, may seem simple at first. But as you delve deeper into it, your vision changes. I'm not sure if it's the church itself, the underground level with its tombs and galleries, or the magnificent view you can see from the dome. From the top of this cathedral, you can enjoy a grand panorama of London. You can have a similar experience from the Sky Garden, London Eye, or any other tall building. It's as beautiful to me as the Sacre Coeur Cathedral in Paris.
Tower Bridge and London Tower
After visiting St. Paul's Cathedral, we made our way to one of the loveliest spots in London. Our destination was a symbol of the city: Tower Bridge Tower Bridge. We reached there by walking. It was around 2:00 PM. We strolled through the streets of London and often encountered men and women dressed either elegantly or casually, enjoying a pint of beer.
I didn't expect to see people doing this in the middle of the day. What was even stranger was that they seemed to be multinational or corporate professionals. Could it be because it happened to be a Sunday? I don't think so. We came across many pubs with a long table in front of them. Throughout the day, from morning till evening, you would find at least 3 or 4 groups of people gathered around a pint of ale.
We finally arrived at the banks of the River Thames. From a distance, we could see the beautiful bridge standing in the middle of the river, waiting for the vessels to pass under it with grandeur. For a vessel to pass under the bridge, they need to send a request 24 hours in advance. Upon confirmation, the time, the vessel, and its direction of travel appear on an electronic display located at the base of the bridge.
The London Pass saved us once again from waiting in line for tickets. The bridge is formed by two tall towers made of nearly 70,000 tons of cement. Between these two towers are the movable parts that lift when vessels pass through. We immediately enter the first tower. As we climb, I notice a completely different pattern on the floor. It reads " The Metallic Paving Coy LimitedIt was probably the company responsible for the metal structure of the interior stairs. The walls here on the outside seem thicker than you would expect. Everything has an old-fashioned feel to it.
As you climb the stairs, you reach a room on the upper floor where a black and white film is constantly playing. A knowledgeable guy periodically explains that the bridge was built between 1886 and 1894 as a necessary passage between the two banks. In 2006, it counted up to 40,000 people crossing it daily.
The towers are connected at the top by two suspended walkways. The beauty is that during the 2016 renovation, windows were added in the floors of these walkways, allowing you to see down onto the bridge. If you happen to be there when the bridge is being raised, I imagine it's a sight to behold.
Upon reaching the second tower, we descended and our visit continued towards the engine room. Here, we witnessed the beauty of the engines, the steam system, and how the two bascules are raised, along with a short historical film about the workers who maintained the bridge and ensured its daily functionality. Below, you can see the ingenuity that underlies the entire system.
London Tower
The last objective we had set to visit was the Tower of London. It is also known as the London Tower, the Palace, and the Royal Fortress. It was built in 1066 as part of the Norman conquest of England. The White Tower, built by William the Conqueror, was used as a prison in 1100.
This palace has had great significance in English history. Whoever had control over it held a significant influence over the course of the kingdoms. It was used as a place to safeguard the state's treasures, an official location, and the current home of the Crown Jewels of England.
Its history is quite vast, and I will not go into detail. More can be found on wikipedia.
Our day was coming to an end. We were very tired but quite pleased with everything we had experienced. It was time for a well-deserved dinner. We were looking for something authentic. We brought out TripAdvisor and found a small restaurant called Maggie JonesIt caught my attention because it was a secluded place with a local vibe. It had limited opening hours, usually from 5:00 PM to 11:00 PM. However, the 4.5/5 rating based on 833 reviews didn't necessarily reflect the actual quality.
It's possible that our tastes didn't align with the restaurant's specialties. At the same time, a half portion of sea bream on a plate, a vegetable pie with a small crust, a glass of red wine, and a bottle of water certainly didn't justify the nearly £60 bill. Not to mention the mandatory £6 tip included on the bill from the moment you sit down. I already felt like I was in Italy where a cover charge is quite common. The conclusion... it was a fail.
Recommendations
The attractions to visit in London are countless. I can recommend the following if you think they might interest you:
- Sky Garden, where you can enjoy a wonderful view if you don't make it to St. Paul's Cathedral or if you're looking for a nice evening view.
- British Museum, if you're a museum fan
- Emirates Airline cable car
- Thames River cruise
- Portobello Market for culinary diversity
- Jamie Oliver's restaurant, although it doesn't have shining reviews
- Cafe Van Gogh
- Greenwich Park, a large park where you can relax after an intense city break
- Take a stroll on Oxford Street and see 10 Downing Street
- Madame Tussaud
- Thorpe Park if you're a fan of amusement parks and have enough time
- Emirates Stadium if you're a football fan and support Arsenal
Indeed, there are many other things that could fascinate you. Personally, I found the experiences of these three days to be sufficient for now. I will detail the next two days in the second part of this article. It's difficult to compare the metropolitan area with the countryside of Great Britain, as they offer different experiences and attractions. Each has its own unique charm and appeal.
(to be continued)
